ANTECEDENTS
The Stories of Us!
"Suddenly all my ancestors are behind me. Be still, they say. Watch and listen. You are the result of the love of thousands.”
― Linda Hogan, Dwellings: A Spiritual History of the Living World
SOURCE: manos-koutras-7jxuzSHtVC8-unsplash.jpg
Betty's Story: Travels in 1940s China
Betty's Story
In Her Words...by Betty Wimbush Scarborough
Betty Wimbush was born circa 1923 to William and Beatrice Wimbush. She was named Betty Ethel Ada Wimbush. William and Beatrice lived in Marton, Warwickshire, England, residing at 52 Mountain View, High Street.. Betty was a British civil servant who married J. [Jack] Scarborough, RAF, and spent the late 1940s in China.
This travelogue is excerpts from her letters to Arthur Niquette Fitzgerald, US Army, whom she befriended while he was recuperating in England from wounds suffered during the Utah Beach Normandy invasion and subsequent inland advance to Germany. When Arthur returned to the US in 1945 and while Betty was stationed in China as a British foreign civil servant mid to late 1940s, they continued to stay in touch. In her letters to Arthur, Betty frequently talks about her Mother who also met Arthur and corresponded regularly with him. Between the three of them, we have a beautiful glimpse into their transnational friendship.
Betty's letters describe her experiences and impressions as seen through the lens of British foreign service and English colonialism in 1940s China. Background images are from Unsplash, and the rest as noted. The excerpts are in her own words.
1945 - Chungking/Chongqing Bay Wartime Capital of China - 1940s
"Last Saturday afternoon feeling terribly energetic, I went on another hike. Everyone said we were mad, as it was so very hot, but it really is worth the effort. On the way back, we were feeling terribly thirsty so decided to stop from tea.....we sat ourselves down on wooden benches and much to the surprise of the Chinese, we shout ch'a and the proprietress....appeared with two small dishes with lids on top in which there were dried chrysanthemum flowers and whole leaves of tea. She then produced a large iron kettle and proceeded to fill the dishes with hot water. The lids were then replaced and the tea allowed to brew. Needless to say all the Chinese community around gathered to gaze upon us....Anyway, the tea was really delicious and one of the joys is that you can just go on drinking as this dear lady appears very frequently with the hot water to fill the dishes up again. You know it's such simple things as this that I enjoy out here, far more than all the parties, etc."
C/O Foreign Office
Downing Street, Whitehall
Admiral Fraser (left) with Admiral Sir James Somerville taking over a new appointment. as Commander in Chief Eastern Fleet, August 22 , 1944, CEYLON. Courtesy of Imperial War Museum
"I had a very great thrill on Tuesday. You may have heard about Admiral Sir Bruce Fraser who paid a visit to Chungking. I was hoping I might see him, but what a surprise I had when he came into my office with the Ambassador, and I was introduced to him. I felt very bucked, and he asked me all about my journey out here."
Early 1946 - Nanking/Nanjing Bay
Peninsula Hotel - Kowloon, Hong Kong
1940s & Today
1940s Caption:
The Ballroom at the Heart of [British] Society Swirl
Images Source: www.hongkongheritage.org; Peninsula Hotel Website
"Well, at long last, we have moved to Nanking at the end of April. Chungking now seems very distant. What a change it is here, everywhere is so much cleaner and you don't get the frightful smells and the rats. I'm living in a marvelous house out in the country on a hill, but at least there are no open drains running alongside. We have trees all round the house, and it is heavenly to wake up in the morning and hear the birds. There are only 3 of us in the house, which makes it so much nicer. I have a lovely room with French windows leading to a large veranda. I also have an adjoining bathroom with everything quite modern. It's quite a change to be able to sit in a decent bath, instead of a wooden tub, and not get splinters on your rear!"
"There are many beautiful walks around here, one being Dr Sun Yat-sen's tomb (below). This is a beautiful memorial hall in white marble with a blue tiled roof. In the center of the hall, there is an impressive statute of Dr. Sun in white marble. The tomb is situated in the most beautiful countryside which reminds me very much of home."
British Command - Eastern Fleet in China
Visit to Tomb of Dr. Sun Yat-sen
Founder of the Republic of China
Life in Nanking
Image Source: Journal of Medical Humanities
"Another delightful spot is known as Spirit Valley. Here there are many old temples and an old pagoda. Several Sundays ago the three of us in the house had the idea of a moonlight picnic. There was no moon; however, it was a lovely night. With 2 American Colonels and 2 RAF Officers, we went complete with plenty of food. We had a wonderful evening. As this was such a success, the following weekend we went to the top of Purple Mountain. It was delightful as we were able to look down on this city, and as it got dark, it was fascinating to see all the lights come on."
Spirit Valley & Purple Mountain
Left Image: Linggu Temple & Park, Spirit Valley, Source: Nanjing China
Right Image: Purple Mountain, Source: Marriott
Background Image: Nanjing Museum, Source: Unsplash
Late 1946 - Nanking/Nanjing Bay
Meeting Generalissimo and Madame Chiang Kai-shek
Former President of the Republic of China
"I managed to get away for another trip in General Carton de Wiart's plane, this time to Kuling. This is just north of Nanking where the Generalissimo has his summer residence. We went as far as Kiukiang [Jiujiang today] by air, from there we crossed the Yangtze River in a launch, drove about 8 miles by car across the plains to the foot of the hills. Kuling is about 5000 feet up, and the only way of getting there is by walking up thousands and thousands of steps, or being carried up in a chair with 4 coolies. Needless to say, I chose the latter. It was certainly breathtaking in parts, and I was rather thankful to put my feet on firm ground again. We had a bungalow to ourselves to live in, not far from Chiang Kai-shek's house.What a delightful holiday we had, and we were outside all day either swimming, playing tennis, or walking. There were many lovely walks up in the hills and what beautiful scenery this was. In the evening we were back from a serious walk, all looking very much the worse for wear. I had sat in a good part of the water so my shorts were rather damp. When who should we meet but the Generalissimo out for his evening stroll, closely followed by a retinue of servants. I'm sure he thought what bright examples we were for the British Embassy!"
Generalissimo & Madame Chiang Kai-shek
Source: National Portrait Gallery, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
"On October 11, we had the great honor of being invited to a tea party given by Madame Chiang Kai-shek in honor of Lady Cripps who is president of the British United Aid to China Fund and who is out here from England to visit several places in China. Only our Embassy girls, all the various Ambassadors' wives, and a few Chinese women were there. After a very good tea, Madame Chiang made a speech. I must say she is very attractive and speaks beautifully. Lady Cripps also made a short speech just before we were all introduced to them and shook hands with them.
There always seems to be cocktail parties to go to or invitations to dinner. How quiet things will seem at home after this gay life!"
Image of Travel & Steps to Kuling Resort
Source: University of Southern California
"We were due to leave for Nanking but the plane developed engine trouble and we didn't get away til the following Sunday. For the rest of the time, I stayed at the Peninsula Hotel which was nicer.....
Most of my time was spent with 2 RAF officers I used to know in Chungking....Each night we went out to dinner and danced at the Peninsula Hotel, which is the best hotel. It is in Kowloon, on the mainland (Biritish Hong Kong) and to get there, you have to cross over on the ferry....The top floor of the hotel was made into an Officers' Club and they had 2 large ballrooms to dance."
"It seemed strange to arrive here and to see trains once again. They hadn't thought of such things in Chungking but it's too funny for words to see the the number of people who crowded onto the trains. They even sit on top of the engine. There is a very good service to Shanghai which takes about 9 hours or you can go by plane, which is only 1 hour. I haven't been yet as prices are too ridiculous for words, but I shall certainly visit there before I go home."
Image Source: Yahoo
Image of Official Nanjing Residence of Former President Chiang Kai-shek
Source: Marriott
1947- Nanking/Nanjing Bay
On Leave in England
1948 - Nanking/Nanjing Bay
Civil Unrest in China
"Things in China now seem to be getting worse and worse. The Communists seem to be having many victories and I think Chiang Kai-shek is getting rather worried about his position. There have been many strikes in Shanghai, and the other day, the students attacked the Mayor. Worse still, however were the anti-British demonstrations by the students last month over trouble in Hong Kong. We had a small demonstration outside the Embassy, but it didn't amount to much. The students just wrote a few things on walls such as :Get Out Sly Fox, Give Us Back Our Territory and Down With Imperialism.
About 8 days later after there was a demonstration at Canton, which is about 20 miles from Hong Kong. Here the students marched to the British Consulate, pulled down the British flag, broke into the Consulate, threw out papers, clothes, furniture and set fire to the Consulate building. Also some other British buildings, and some of the British people were slightly injured as a result of stones being thrown at them. All is quiet for now, but how long it will last nobody knows."
"It also doesn't really seem possible that I am back home again after nearly 2 years out in China. I have been home on leave since the middle of May but my leave is now practically finished, and I am returning to Nanking by air in July. As wonderful as it is to be home again, I'm afraid I couldn't settle down here. Conditions in England are pretty awful these days, and I'm very thankful that I am returning to Nanking. I shall of course be very sad to leave the family again.....My journey home was very quick. I went on the night train from Nanking to Shanghai. I flew from there to Hong Kong where I had 4 beautiful days. Hong Kong is such a delightful place. I flew from Hong Kong in a Norwegian Skymaster, and we stopped at Bangkok, Calcutta, Karachi, Basra, Cairo, Rome and Amsterdam. There we changed planes and flew to London, arriving there just four days after leaving Hong Kong."
Betty's Engagement
"Now for some good news. I am engaged to be married! My fiancé is F/Sgt. Jack Scarborough, RAF, who is also working in the Embassy. We are going to be married at the beginning of October. In many ways I'm sorry this wedding will be here as I would like to be with my family., but I suppose we can't have everything. At one time I was sorry I had come back to Nanking, but now of course, I am very happy!"
1949 - Nanking/Nanjing Bay
China Civil War
Civil unrest and demonstrations would continue well into 1949, resulting in a costly civil war in China between the forces of Mao Zedong, leader of the Chinese Communist Peoples Liberation Army, and those of Chiang Kai-shek, leader of the Nationalist Kuomintang Party. After years of bloody civil unrest in China, Mao Zedong was victorious, taking control of Nanking in April 1949 and declaring the foundation of the Peoples Republic of China on October 1, 1949.
The events of 1949 were momentous with far-reaching effects — from the Communist take-over of China and the flight of Chiang Kai-shek and his nationalist government to the island of Taiwan to regroup. Even more pivotal was the impact of 1949 on ending imperialism in China, including American involvement and British foreign policy. Hong Kong still lay in the distance future and would be returned to China in 1997, but from 1949 on, China would determine its own destiny.
Betty and her husband, Jack Scarborough, returned to London on board the RMS Canton, stopping at ports in Singapore, Penang, Colombo, Bombay, Aden and Said. According to an Ancestry immigration document, they arrived in London on October 13, 1949. Newly married, they disembarked, leaving their British foreign service in China in the past and headed into their future.
End of Betty's Story